Service
Service
RAY NIERLICH
SLAMMED SUZUKI
Q: I ride a 2006 Suzuki DL650, which I lowered using a 3/4 lowering link on the rear suspension and by raising the fork legs in the triple tree an equal amount. I can flat foot when I stop, and with lowered footpegs the ergonomics are perfect. The new 2018 Suzuki DL1000 is on my short list for a new bike but is a little tall. When a motorcycle is equipped with an Inertial Measurement Unit (IMU) can you safely make these type of changes, or am I limited to a lowered seat and footpegs?
MARK THOMSON STITTSVILLE, ONTARIO, CANADA
A: As in previous replies, I am not a fan of lowering bikes. There are many bad trade-offs that occur when a bike is lowered, not the least of which is the possibility of dragging something sturdy when you least can afford it and jacking one or both wheels off the ground. So if you must, do the very minimum lowering that you require. First check your sag height. If you weigh less than the average person, you should reset this lower first.
Suzuki’s IMU is part of a new system on this model year, so my expert suspension guys don’t have much experience with it as of this writing. But as long as the height adjustments you make are small and don’t largely alter factory spring rates, compression damping, or pitch of the bike, there shouldn’t be any problems.
Before going this direction, consider a thinner seat, proper riding boots with thick soles and heels, and some trials riding techniques, which will all go a long way to making a tallish bike less daunting.
BRAIDED LINE DOS AND DON’TS
Q: I have a 1993 Honda CBR1000F that has been a faithful and ultrareliable bike from the start. I have other machines but this one still puts a smile on my face every time I ride it. I have been thinking about upgrading my clutch and brake lines to Galfer braidedsteel lines and was curious as to whether or not this would work with the bike itself. In other words, would it put undue stress on other parts of the bike downstream of the hoses themselves? I take meticulous care of my bike and just want to get your expert opinion on the idea of upgrading the systems as described.
WALT TAYLOR RICHMOND, VA
A: Great bike and we want to keep it safe. Anything more than 20 years is plenty old for rubber brake hoses. Go ahead and fit the stainless steel hoses. When installing there are a few things to be careful about.
Make sure the hoses aren’t twisted as installed. SS hoses are stiffer than the rubber type and will attempt to straighten out when under high pressure.
The braided SS exterior (unless coated) is very abrasive, so be careful to rout the hoses so they don’t rub against anything that may be chafed. Sometimes a piece of shrink-wrap on a section of hose will avoid marks on the triple clamps, fenders, etc.
Use new (or anneal your old) copper washers on any banjo fittings. Make doubly sure there is no seepage from the banjos. After bleeding, dry the joints thoroughly and sprinkle a little baby powder on them. The baby powder will show any dampness much more easily on the shiny surfaces. Then hold pressure for at least 20 seconds, and look for leaks. Since the clutch works at low pressure compared to the brakes, seepage may not be immediately obvious. I usually tie wrap the clutch lever back against the grip and check on it the next morning. (Don’t ask how I learned this lesson the hard way.)
SMOKING BAN
Q: Two-strokes. When were they made illegal? I read that you could have a model built before a certain date...
TIM DAY CYCLEWORLD.COM
A: Two-strokes aren’t illegal. You can still buy any number of twostroke dirt bikes. Conventional two-stroke engines aren’t able to meet current EPA emissions standards for road use. Rather than invest more time and money in what they felt was going to be a losing battle, manufacturers abandoned the street two-stokes back in the ’80s. See Kevin Cameron’s “TPI TwoStroke Tech Analysis,” page 14.
