Service
Service
BLOODY” SOFT BRAKES HARD-CHARGING HONDA CONFLICTING FEEDBACK BEST USED DIRT
RAY NIERLICH
BLEEDIN’ ABS
Q: The Brembo brakes on my 2016 Triumph Thruxton R have good power and modulation, but I can’t get a consistent front brake lever feel. The first squeeze is soft, with the lever pulling about halfway to the bar. Release, give it a quick second squeeze, and the lever feels fine. I’ve bled the front brake system and so has the dealer. The tech said that she has noticed this on all the new bikes. I took the bike to our local Ducati race shop, and they said the softness may be due to the ABS system. I’ve been riding Ducatis with Brembo brakes for 40 years, and I’m used to a firm lever with a short stroke. Are those days gone, or is there an ABS bleed procedure I need to follow?
TED COSTANTINO BOULDER, CO
A: Other folks on the Triumph forum (triumphrat.net) have had similar complaints. The Nissin ABS-equipped Triumphs can trap air in the ABS valve body. Ensure
your dealer is using the factory tool that cycles the ABS valves while bleeding. If you fancy bleeding it yourself, get software such as DealerTool so you can cycle the ABS.
GROUNDED ADVICE
Over the past few months I have been going through batteries and headlight bulbs, so I decided to check the voltage during my commute and it was charging at 17.8 volts. I replaced the regulator assembly (aftermarket) and was still getting 15 to 18 volts, even at idle. When looking across the three “phases” from the stator (yellow wires)
I get 12 VAC (1-2,2-3,1-3) and from each phase to ground about 9 VAC. If I disconnect the regulator from the stator, I get 18 VAC across phases and still 9 VAC to ground. Resistance is 0.3 ohm across phases. Readings at the green and red wires from the regulator are 15 to 18 VDC while connected and 26 VDC if that connector is removed. Anything
else to check? Bad ground somewhere? Could not find info on what stator output should be. My buddy’s suggestion was to wire in four more high beams and a heated vest.
ERIC BUDINKO ALTA LOMA, CA
A Now you think maybe to check the ground? All the green/ yellow/red wire volt checking is wasted motion if you didn’t check the grounds first. The ground wire is clamped between the plastic fairing and the frame on these—a guaranteed problem if you run the bike long enough, which it appears you have. (Good on you!) Check your engine mountings too. Just because the engine looks bolted in doesn’t mean it has a good ground.
SOUR SERVICE SELECTION
For decades I have read what are now both Bonnier publications, Cycle World and Motorcyclist. My favorite section has to be Service (and Answers) and the columns of Egan and Cameron. The Service column in the Jan./ Feb. 2017 edition of CW was a huge disappointment. The first four answers didn’t have anything to do with mechanical issues. Why some bikes have better fenders? Are you kidding? Is this the “intro to two-wheelers” edition? Ethanol again? Come on. That horse has been beat enough! Dealers and repair shops just R/R parts and don’t know what they are doing. Revelation? And lastly the guy from Perth who may have a hard time getting top dollar flipping an aging Due because it wasn’t stored for 30 years like the concours beauty he hopes to sell it as.
What do any of these answers have to do with Service? Please get back to solving or explaining real mechanical issues.
If you are running short of questions, then tell us why an ’06 Suzuki DLiooo V-Strom sometimes doesn’t start right away after a week or so of sitting. It may require extended cranking and opening the throttle to get it to fire. I’ve looked at this on stromtrooper.com and it is an issue that occurs occasionally. Opening the throttle while cranking gets it started eventually. Why does this occur?
BRAD DUNN CYCLEWORLD.COM
A: CW is a full-service publication, Brad. We make every attempt to keep it interesting for you experienced guys while also encouraging novice riders. There are no bad questions. Now, to your V-Strom... Opening the throttle while cranking doesn’t do anything except maybe make it a little easier to spin over on a fuel-injected bike. Always check electrical items first. How old is your battery? Check the voltage across the battery while it is cranking. If it is below to volts, get yourself a new brand-name AGM battery. Second, I’d replace the spark plugs with some premium platinum types or similar. Should do the trick.
SERVICE SATISFACTION
Q: I read your Service page with glee every month and enjoy your interaction with the motorcycling masses very much. Makes me appreciate the sophistication of my Gamma clientele all the more.
In the latest (Jan./Feb.) issue you had an interesting subject come up with a transmission issue on a GSX-R600 that was popping out of second gear into neutral. You discussed the likelihood of the culprit being hammered shift dogs from an abusive previous owner (whoever heard of that happening?).
I wanted to suggest another possibility to give the poor guy some hope that his cases need not be split. Oftentimes, when the trans fails to hold onto second gear and reverts to neutral, the root cause can be shifter related. The throw from first to second is unique in that it requires a greater lift and motion of travel from the lever than any other shift due to the longer (radially) distance needed to go from
first past neutral to second on the shift drum. If the lever is bent, the linkage worn or just poorly adjusted, the lever might not be allowing full engagement of second gear with the shift fork traveling all the way into the retaining slot on the drum. When stressed, the force of the dog wedging against the slotted gear can cause the shift fork to rotate the shift drum backward into neutral. He may try lowering the lever or perhaps use different shoes. Look for anything interfering with the lever’s free movement. Look also for crash damage or abnormal wear.
An oil change couldn’t hurt either.
RICK LANCE CYCLEWORLD.COM
A: You're absolutely right, Rick. I should have mentioned checking the shift linkage. A thousand pardons. (Rick is “the man” in the US when it comes to Suzuki Gammas.)
FUEL PUMP LOTTERY
Q: I have a 2014 Suzuki V-Strom. Like many high-performance machines it requires premium gas. My gas station sells 93-octane gas. The bike has a 5-plus-gallon gas tank. I have been waiting until my fuel level is very reduced to fill up because I am afraid that there is at least 1/2 gallon to a full gallon of regular gas in the gas pump system (hose, piping, etc.), which may dilute the octane that I end up with in my tank. I have seen the results of running without the proper octane gas—it is the stuff of nightmares. Am I right to be concerned about this, or am I overthinking it?
ERNEST). WEEKS
CYCLEWORLD.COM
Overthinking it, man. So long as you exhibit a little common sense, this isn't a problem in the real world. Suzuki didn’t see fit to include a knock sensor on your machine, so you have to go easy on it if/when you get a less-than-optimum batch of fuel. Avoid pushing it, especially in the higher gears when in hot operating conditions, and your pistons will thank you. And, because you asked... From two different sources, the amount of fuel remaining in the hose at a typical gas station pump is either less than 1/3 gallon (API) or 1/2 liter (Shell). In any case, it’s not a lot.
RICH RUNNER
from 4,000 rpm and up. This doesn’t seem to add up being it has a catalytic converter. Fuel consumption is high for 320CC. Would a fuel controller lean it to about 13:1 and improve drivability and fuel mileage? Also idle is at 1,500 rpm. Dealer says it is normal and cannot be adjusted. Couldn’t it be adjusted with the throttle body sync screws?
DONALD MABRY HOUSTON, TX
A: When possible, all manufacturers will err on the safe side and leave the fuel mixture a bit rich rather than too lean. They know you’re going to throw that muffler away and fit a sporty slip-on as soon as you’re out of sight of the showroom. Here at CW we got respectable fuel mileage (57 mpg) from our test R3, so maybe you’re spoiled? Piggyback-type fuel controllers are best at improving drivability and not so much power. Your mileage may improve slightly, but it is going to take a long while to recover the $350 or so large it cost for the fuel controller. As far as setting the idle lower with the sync screws, why would you want to? And don’t.
DESCRIPTIVE SYMPTOMS ALLOW DIAGNOSIS
have had a service within the last 600 miles and my oil light has come on. I checked the oil and topped it up. What issue could this be? Does it need an oil change? I am new to riding altogether and this is my first bike—just a little 125.
CALLIM MATHER CYCLEWORLD.COM
A: When attempting to resolve any future problems include as much information about the situation as possible. It pays to make the mechanic’s job easier rather than harder. Since you didn’t provide make, model, age, mileage, or any relevant previous history, I can only make general comments. Are you sure it is an oil light? Quite often warning lights can be mistaken for something else. If it is an oil light on, most likely it is a low-pressure light and not a low-level light. If your bike has recently been serviced, you don’t need to change the oil again. Go back to the
shop and have them take a look.
ANOTHER HOT ROCKET III TIP
Q: Why not suggest a good-quality asbestos-type pipe wrap? Lots of guys use these for looks, but I’ve tried ’em for their shielding properties with some success. Others say they may cause corrosion, but he might not be concerned. Also he might be able to rig up a thin asbestos-type gasket/board to again shield some of the heat away. I used some material like this once to shield header heat away from a starter— it was not too bulky or difficult to rig up.
CE0R0E PENICK TALLAHASSEE, FL
A: George, I like the way you think. The head pipes have wimpy steel shields from the factory. Pipe wrap or a more serious fabricated shield will be, shall we say, unstylish but may help. May help with the radiant heat that is, not so catching any babes.
BEEMER BREAKIN’ BITS
Q: have had the opportunity to break-in my good share of new motorcycles in 39 years of riding and basically know what to expect when I change the oil for the first time. Granted, magnetic drain plugs were an aftermarket item back in the middle/late ’70s, so sifting the oil to see what came out was necessary back then. Magnetic drain plugs are a wonderful thing. The only time I have seen as much or large metal shavings as observed on my 2015 BMW S1000RR after its second oil change at 3,680 miles was the break-in oil change on my 1978 Harley-Davidson Sportster. I followed break-in riding strictly by the manufacturer’s recommendations. I’m not particularly hard on my bike. I have only had it on the track once. I would hate to think that something is failing on my new S1000RR. Do you have any thoughts on this?
PABLO ORTIZ CYCLEWORLD.COM
A: Metal on the S1000RR drain plug is quite typical as it turns out. It is metal shards from the gears. The gearboxes seem to show no adverse effects from this, so don’t worry. If the bike is fitted with the quickshifter option or, worse, has been fitted with aftermarket rearsets, either will increase the metal shavings.
