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IF ANYTFIING ON the Can-Am we tested had to be labeled sub-par, it would be the suspension. Not because it is sub-par as far as suspension goes, but because the other elements that make up the Can-Am motorcycle each have a certain element of superiority. The suspension is just plain normal. It allows the rider to control the motorcycle, within the limits of the travel the components provide. But you can go very fast with the powerful 175cc engine. And, in so doing, you begin to exceed the limits of the "plain" suspension. Once all of the travel is gone, any remaining unabsorbed forces are transmitted to the rider. The obvious solution would be to get more travel.
The area suffering the most from lack of sufficient travel is the rear. Our initial plans were to modify the frame and install a pair of gas/oil dampers in either a slanted or forward-mount position. But Can-Am realizes that the serious enduro rider/ racer needs more travel. So, they've developed their own combination of parts that, with one simple modification (a weld), can increase rear axle travel from 3.5 in. to just over five.
Since the original Can-Am silencer box mounts directly in front of the left rear shock, in order to move the shocks forward, you must eliminate the silencer. For this purpose, a new exhaust pipe is part of the package. The pipe looks very similar in shape to the standard one until you come to the area where the old pipe plugged into the silencer. Instead, the pipe continues rearward into a spark arrester and terminates in a fiberglass-packed silencing tip. The pipe carries heat shields to protect the rider's leg, but is well tucked in anyway.
With the new pipe comes an additional bracket that must> be welded to the frame. Although it is about a pound lighter than the old exhaust arrangement, the new pipe still weighs nine lb. and needs the additional strength of the added bracket.
The rest of the kit consists of a new swinging arm that is slightly longer than the stocker. The shock mounts are also farther forward. A new brake anchor arm, as well as a longer brake rod and a new chain guide, is included. The kit even comes with new S&W shock absorbers. Of course, the springs are stiffer because of the increased leverage of the longer arm and new shock position.
After removing all of the hardware from the old swinging arm, install the items onto the new arm. Then remove the old swinging arm. Now it will be necessary for you to unbolt the battery/tool kit box from behind the right side panel. With this done, the airbox can be removed so that its plastic surface is not damaged during the welding of the new exhaust pipe bracket.
With the bracket in place, reinstall the airbox and the battery box. Slip on the new swinging arm, making sure that all friction surfaces are properly greased before installation. Can-Am does not specify the amount of pressure needed to properly torque the swinging arm nut, but tighten it until the arm will stay put when placed in a horizontal position. Then keep an eye on the bolt the first few times you ride.
Hooking up the shocks is a breeze; but remember to secure them to the most forward of the two upper mounting holes. On the left side, the rear hole is the final mounting point for the pipe. Before securing the pipe into place, check to see whether it comes into contact with one of the old silencer-box mounts. It might not, but if it does, get out your hacksaw and remove the old mount. Then slide the pipe into place.
Because of the longer swinging arm, you will have to add a small piece of chain. If your chain is getting old, now would be the perfect time to replace it. When adjusting your chain, it is best to keep in mind that it should be just a little looser than normal. The rear axle is sweeping a bigger arc now, and there is more of a difference between the chain's tension at rest and at the point of greatest tautness than what you've become accustomed to.
With all of the steps completed, it's time to go for a ride.
Right away you'll notice the increased smoothness. If you've had experience with long-travel rear suspension setups, then you will be able to tell that this one falls short of true luxury; but it certainly is an improvement. Very light riders (130 pounds and under), will find the spring rate on the harsh side. Larger riders—those for whom the spring rate is better suited—will like it just the way it is.
After you stop concentrating on the pleasures of the improved suspension, other changes will catch your interest. Since the rear of the machine has been raised to provide the room needed for the increased travel, the fork rake has decreased slightly. The bike steers slightly quicker. Of course, with a Can-Am there is, because of the adjustability built into the steering head, no problem if you want to make it steer the way it did.
Another change is in high-speed stability. The wheelbase is longer and, once the rake decrease has been corrected for, that keeps the machine from veering off the line you've chosen.
We still plan to modify our Can-Am and use those gas/oil dampers. But we would have needed the new swinging arm anyway, and the cost of the shocks would be too much for most people. And then there's the expense of restructuring parts of the frame at the rear. If cost isn't a serious consideration with you, then stay tuned and we'll present our modification in a future issue. But for the competitive trail rider, or the serious enduro rider on a budget, the Can-Am kit, available through your dealer, is your ticket to ride. g]
