Feedback
FEEDBACK
Readers, as well as those involved in the motorcycle industry, are invited to have their say about motorcycles they own or have owned. Anything is fair game: performance, handling, relia-
bility, service, parts availability, lovability, you name it. Suggestions: be objective, be fair, no wildly emotional but ill-founded invectives; include useful facts like mileage on odometer, time owned, model year, special equipment and accessories bought, etc.
SUPER SPORTSTER
Perhaps a few of your readers will recall the article about the Super Sportster in your Aug. '65 issue. Well, I built one for the street and I thought you might be interested in how it held up. Actually, this is my second Super Sportster; the first was stolen. The modifications from front to back are: aluminum front rim with a Sprint brake, Ceriani front forks, large gas tank for fewer gas stops, frame has been drilled under tank, engine has XLR valves, port job, PB cams, 12:1 pistons, high-speed adjustable jet on carburetor with a velocity stack, exhaust is straight through with no mufflers or baffles, just extensions have been added to the H-D under/over exhaust system, back seat and fenders are Bates, back wheel rim is also aluminum.
Basically this machine is well constructed and reliable. However, in some respects a standard H-D is probably more reliable. Examples: The headlight and instrument bracket is rigid mounted and usually ends up cracking within 5000 miles of its replacement. The gas tank has split a seam several times due to flexing of the frame. The way to eliminate this problem is to not tighten both ends of the tank to the same tightness. Leave the back bolt loose but firm and this allows the tank to move when the frame bends.
The engine has broken one roller tappet at 20,000 miles and scored another at 26,000. The engine had to be rebuilt at 28,000 miles because the front rod had 1/8-in. up and down movement on it. The standard Sportster will have about 1/16-in. in 30,000 miles. Because the air cleaner was removed from the carburetor, it must be cleaned about every 5000 miles and the rings in the engine replaced about every 7000 miles.
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Don’t get the idea that all reliability has gone to the wind with this machine. It has been driven 1000 miles in one day and wasn’t even strained, whereas I was. It handles much better than a stock Sportster and goes about as fast as a Norton Combat Commando or a Kawasaki 750, and this was accomplished when it had 1/8-in. slop in the front rod. The vibration on the front handlebars is always noticeable because they’re also rigid mounted. This bike weighs 420 lb. with a half-tank of fuel and costs about $3000. I have it insured for $2900 and since I’m a little crazy regarding this machine, I have no intentions of ever selling it. As a matter of fact, I keep it mounted on blocks in my den as a momento of all the wilder experiences I’ve had on it.
Jack S. Seimas San Jose, Calif.
YAMAHA 360 MX
I read your road test in the April ’73 issue about the Yamaha 360 MX. It was for the most part true, but I would like to give my ideas on it after owning one for five months and about 10 motocrosses (my first). Your strongest complaint against it being a true motocrosser seemed to be that the rear brake is too good and the power curve isn’t really mid-range competitive.
I definitely agree on both points about a stock bike. To change the power range I suggest either a Wiseco or Venolia two-ring piston. This brings the power in lower plus increases torque without taking away from its super top end. The brake is a little more difficult. I suggest cutting grooves in the brake shoes for a little more feeling. Another thing the bike needs is a smaller capacity and narrower gas tank. The tank is just too wide to really wrap your knees around in a bermed turn.
You mentioned changing the rear shocks. This really surprised me. I don’t believe that you allowed break-in on the shocks. After approximately two weeks the shocks get to a point where when sitting on the bike it is approximately 2-in. longer. This does improve handling. Taller and wider handlebars are needed. Changing to a larger rear tire is a necessity, and a different make front tire is also highly recommended. Handling on this bike is very good, even for a novice. For serious motocross, the oil injection and the Omniphase balancer should come off, to save weight and improve power considerably throughout the range. The stock bike is an excellent enduro and trail bike. Service and parts here are great and easy on the wallet. This bike plus $100 puts you in serious motocross for about $1200. I am well pleased with mine.
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Alvin Reynolds Largo, Fla.
SUZUKI TS90R
While in the throes of a consuming financial reversal (matrimony), I suffered a considerable time without a bike. Although desperate, I nearly passed up a chance to buy a Suzuki TS90R at a criminal price, because I thought it was too small for me—that it wasn’t a real motorcycle. But then I rationalized that it’d have to be better than my Schwinn, so I bought it. I’ve never been sorry.
After riding in woods, fields, gravel pits, mud, brush and snow I have come to regard the 90 as a dependable mount, a willing worker and a bike that will take me just about any place I have the guts to go at a speed that is equal to or greater than prudence would dictate for a rider of average ability. I had never supposed that a 90 could be worth having, let alone be enjoyable and challenging, but I found the TS90 to possess both these qualities.
Even though it’s a surprisingly good bike for the money, any bike has faults and the following are the Suzuki’s worst. The main stand hangs down too low—way too low. I gave mine to a neighborhood kid, told him it was a piece from a flying saucer. Junk like that fills up a rubbish barrel fast.
The bike does not come with a skid plate. The one that comes on a TC90 can be had for about $6 and you can drill it full of lightening holes in about three hours—less if you have a sharp bit. There are no cable adjusters for the front brake and clutch levers on the handlebars. I suppose there are worse places to cut costs, though.
The lugs on the rubber footpegs pack full of snow or mud easily and installing desert-type serrated pegs makes riding in these mediums much less exciting. Replacing the 51-tooth rear sprocket with a 57-tooth will cut the top speed of the bike from 65 mph (indicated) to 58 mph (indicated), but will make climbing out of gullies or over logs a lot easier on the clutch.
The rear shocks have no damping. In spite of this, the bike handles quite well—which astounded me. While working on the bike I discovered the swinging arm seems to be friction mounted in rubber and resists swinging through its arc when unladen. Perhaps this is what keeps the rear end from hopping.
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When I hit in the Michigan lottery, I’m going to get a CZ 250. But in the meantime, I’m getting a lot of pleasure and use out of a bike that’s worth a lot more than it cost.
Larry Carr Lansing, Mich.
RT-1 360
Yamaha, it’s a better machine because: you have to remove the front wheel to drain the fork oil, an exuberant wheelie rips the license plate and taillight off, because the brake hubs stay rust-free, and to touch the points you must pull the flywheel (which means special tools).
But the most amazing feature is the ability to see the threads on the stud bolts while looking between the cooling fins. I don’t know if this absence of aluminum on the block is factory standard or an optional weight saver.
So far, and I mean so far, we have had to replace the final drive side cover, the clutch pushrod, and rebend the swinging arm, all when the chain decided to come off the rear sprocket (it didn’t break). In addition two gears, one shifting fork, one bearing (on drive shaft) and numerous bolts which decided to reproduce.
Granted, the bike with only 3500 miles had been abused which accounted for the general disgraceful look of the dirt mongrel, but no way could abuse account for the defects in the castings.
David Luskin Weston, Conn
