Feedback
FEEDBACK
Readers are invited to have their say about motorcycles they own or have owned. Anything is fair game: performance, handling, reliability, service, parts availability, funkiness, lovability, you name it. Suggestions: be objective, be fair, no wildly emotional but illfounded invectives; include useful facts like miles on odometer, time owned, model year, special equipment and accessories bought, etc.
NORTON WRITES BACK
Dear Mr. Montizambert:
We were very interested of course to read your letter in the March issue of CYCLE WORLD magazine. Your friend would appear to have had his share of troubles and it is about these problems in particular that I write. His machine, incidentally, would appear to be a 1970 model, and we are honest enough here at Norton to admit that his troubles were shared by several Norton riders during that period, in particular those people who were using their machines to the utmost.
Oil Leaks: This has long been a problem with British vertical Twins. It was lessened on the 1971 models and reports to date on the 1972s are that it is (at last) virtually eliminated. We have achieved this as a result of a new crankcase, some minor but logical modifications and better attention to detail quality.
Valve Guides (Inlet): These are now fitted with a close tolerance plastic seal, thus eliminating any over oiling that may occur in the top half of the engine.
Engine Mounting Bolts: A locking type rear engine mounting bolt is now fitted.
Exhaust Pipes: The exhaust pipe nuts are now fitted with a very simple locking device.
Side Stand: A quick glance at the side stand will show the stronger type fitting on the ’72 models, although the angle of lean remains the same.
Mufflers: The newest type, while quieter than those fitted to your friend’s machine, also allow the machine to accelerate fractionally quicker. CYCLE WORLD has recently tested a 1972 Roadster and on acceleration it gives a well-known 750cc Oriental twocycle Triple a good run for its money.
You mention a “lack of Norton dealers.”
I agree with you on this point, certainly as far as the states of Wyoming, Montana and the Dakotas are concerned. In the past six months, however, we have expanded the Norton dealer network—the new listings are to be published shortly and I will see that you receive a copy-and I feel confident that a Norton rider can now set out across country with little likelihood of becoming stranded.
I think you will agree that we are eliminating those problems which have aggravated Norton owners and I trust you find this information of interest. Should you or your Norton friend wish to communicate with Norton, please feel free to write to our Service Manager, Brian Slark, or myself.
Norton Villiers Corp.
Mike Jackson General Manager
BMW RESPONSE
I read about the BMW R75/5 in the April issue and I had similar problems with my carbs.
If you pull off the air intake tubes, you can check to see if the vacuum pistons are “hanging up” by lifting them with your finger and see if they drop all the way back down smoothly. Do this several times to be sure. If you detect any roughness of operation or sticking, remove the top cover of the carb. Pull out the vacuum piston-diaphragm assembly. Looking up into the guide bore in the top cover you will see a small felt oil retainer. Saturate the felt with motor oil and put a little oil on the vacuum piston guide rod. Insert the rod into the bore and recheck for smooth operation.
(Continued on page 26)
The owners’ manual doesn’t mention this felt, but they do say not to oil the vacuum piston.
I’ve done this three times in over 10,000 miles and the carburetors work extremely well. Make sure to position the piston and diaphram correctly on reassembly, as there is a small tab on the outer rim of the diaphragm which mates with a corresponding depression in the casting.
The only other trouble I’ve had with my R75 is that the rear wheel bearings are getting sloppy—evidently the clearances were set-up wrong at the factory.
I’ve owned five BMWs now and I like the 75/5 best of all of them.
Grant D. Avery Concord, N.H.
My 1971 BMW R/75 is the greatest. No, I’m not bragging; I’m just telling it like it is. I don’t work for BMW either.
Randy. Towne Burlington, Vt.
I note that reader Randy Towne calls your attention to the fact that the BMW R75/5 weighs less than the Kawasaki 750. You weasel out by saying you were talking of curb weight and not dry weight. Try again—your report on the Kawasaki shows it to weigh 465 lb. with a half tank fuel—4.5-gal. capacity. The BMW with a full tank of fuel-6.3-gal. capacity-weighs 463 lb. What now?
Eiden D. Jones Riverside, Calif.
That’s right, Eiden. What now?— Ed.
First off, all of Mr. Fagerberg’s problems could and should have been corrected by his dealer, and covered under the warranty. Starting with the carburetor problem: Admittedly this has been a source of major complaint, however, they can be made to work properly, and idle at a consistent 800 rpm. Before blaming the carburetor, first be absolutely sure that the auto-advance mechanism is working properly. This is to mean that with a hot engine the advance unit returns to the retard position every time. A malfunction of the auto-advance can never be corrected by adjusting the carburetor. It would seem to me that any dealer who sells BMW motorcycles should take enough pride in it to ensure that each BMW works properly, or at least have the initiative to find out how to set up and adjust them.
(Continued on page 28)
Tom Andersen Freeport, 111.
I also have a ’71 R75/5 which I purchased here in California a year ago. To date, I have driven it over 13,000 miles with not so much as a broken cable. My driving mostly consists of to and from work (4 miles one-way) and weekend jaunts of around 250-300 miles. I also drive it to Cal State where I attend during the evening. Since most of my driving is on the freeways at speeds of 65-75 mph, my bike has not been mollycoddled.
Answering Mr. Fagerberg’s complaints in the same order in which they appeared I’ll respond thus:
1) According to my mechanic it is NOT a characteristic of the Bing carburetor tp cause the engine to sputter prior to take-off. Mine doesn’t. It has tremendous acceleration and they have never given me any trouble nor has any person I’ve talked with experienced any difficulty with them.
2) Ten seconds is a very long time. If his engine takes 10 seconds to drop rpms then I suggest he either change mechanics or engine timing or something.
3) The electric starter on my machine has never failed to operate except when I left the bike standing for two weeks while I was on vacation. The reason was that the battery had died. However, after 20 kicks or so, the engine started and now the starter and the battery are as before.
4) He didn’t say whether or not his bike remains outside during damp days, but even on my past bikes “fogging” up of the tach-speedo was a common occurrence. I keep my instruments dry by spraying WD-40 oil around the glass and inside the headlight “dome.”
5) A good way to keep your rubber straps, dust covers, etc., from breaking or cracking is to buy a can of RuGLYDE rubber lubricant. This stuff has kept all the rubber on my bike like new.
As I do all the tuning on my bike I don’t have to worry or wonder if the dealer took his time or if the work was done by “trainees.” I find that the R75, while not the easiest bike I’ve worked on, is certainly not one of the hardest. Having owned two ’70 Sportsters in the past and before that a ’66 T120R Bonne (my first bike) I can, without reservation, honestly say that my present bike is the most trouble-free, comfortable and dependable machine that I’ve ever owned. Sure the Japanese 500 and now the 750 two-strokes are faster, but in my mind if I have to choose between speed and dependability the latter always comes out on top.
(Continued on page 32)
John A. Navarro Alhambra, Calif.
All the crankcase leaks are Mr. Fagerberg’s own damn fault. One must tighten snugly all of the pan bolts, cover alien screws, etc., simply because the alloy of the crankcase expands at a different rate than the threaded fasteners, thus causing them to loosen. I employed Loc-Tite Sealant and copper crush washers to stop the annoying leaks around the studs holding the front plate on the crankcase, the one behind the alternator and points. This leak manifests itself as an oily mess coming from around the bottom of the cover in front.
I cannot dispute the paint, its quality has taken a definite nosedive. Rubbing it out with Blue Coral cleaner and a couple coats of sealer might improve the situation.
In summing up, I fell heir to the teething problems all machines have in their first year of production. The cures were inexpensive and I feel the /5 models to be far superior to previous models in reliability, handling, and all around rider enjoyment. My one suggestion to anyone who owns his first BMW is to keep the fingers off the machinery if it runs right. Too many good machines get messed up by inexperienced shadetree mechanic-ownerriders.
Jonathan L. Pinne El Cerrito, Calif.
Having been a subscriber to CYCLE WORLD since 1967, I feel qualified to say you have one of the finest publications available today.
I would like to inform Mr. Fagerberg and any other readers of what to do concerning this and similar problems. One—the shortcomings of some of the 1970-1971 BMWs have been acknowledged and I understand the factory authorized the dealers to correct this problem under warranty, regardless of time or mileage. The dealers are usually the weak link in the chain: many avoid warranty work like the plague. This aspect of the problem may be overcome by 1) Contact the dealer you purchased the machine from and discuss the problem with him. Be sure you understand what he tells you. If results are not obtained, one must write letters. 2) Write to Butler & Smith, the distributor. Write a frank but honest letter stating your every complaint. Send a copy to your dealer and keep a copy for your future reference, also. 3) Join the BMW Motorcycle Owners of America Inc., P.O. Box 74, Newark, CA 94560. They have information available through the formation of a national technical committee to assist the rider. The strength of a large National organization such as this also serves to assist the members in obtaining fair treatment from the distributor when required.
(Continued on page 34)
Chuck Smith BMW Riders Association Western New York
Right or wrong, the BMW fraternity is definitely a fraternity. Judging by the many letters we received but couldn’t print in this issue, BMW owners care very much about quality, engineering and workmanship. And they possess more than a minimum amount of mechanical know-how. Thank you, gentlemen, for your enthusiastic participation in “Feedback.”— Ed.
WE STAND ALONE
I read your report on the new BSA 500cc Single and listened as you bemoaned the passing of the once-great 500 Singles.
I bought a new 1968 Matchless 500 Single and sampled the dubious pleasures of owning a “thumper” for two years and 2300 miles before putting it in the garage. Since then I’ve been trying to sell it. And, after spending nearly $100 on ads, in newspapers, cycle magazines, and more “buy, sell and trade” newsletters than I care to think about, the bike is still mine.
When I first started, the price was always followed by the word “firm.” When nobody showed any interest I lowered the price; then lowered it much more. Then I tried the “best offer” gambit, and finally tried to trade—for anything.
No offers came.
Only two types of people even asked to look at the bike; the middle-aged man that fondly remembers when he rode his own Matchless; and the teenager that raves about how great the bikes were and how they don’t makej them like that anymore, just before he blips his lOOcc electric-start Twin to life and buzzes away.
(Continued on page 38)
I’ve paid for one more ad knowing that this time will be no different. But even when the bike doesn’t sell I know that I’ll enjoy the BANG when I dynamite it later this summer.
If you lament the fate of the once great 500 Single, you Sir, are alone.
Harry R. Owen Omaha, Neb.
Two years and only 2300 miles, Harry? How can you lament the fate of something that you’ve garaged for most of its natural life?—Ed.
CHANGED TO AN H-D
This letter is prompted by Neal Sager’s letter about his “new” BSA Lightning. His letter was a repeat description often heard by two people I know with similar problems but add forks that continually leak and an oil tank which sprays oil at the cap. The latter problem, due to an unfortunate placement of the battery, causes the battery to overflow, thus leaking oil over the frame and pipes. Acid does wonders for pipes!
I had a ’69 BSA which was in excellent condition after 10,000 miles and I rode it hard. Could it be that the English have cut some corners to compete with the Japanese? I feel sorry for the dealers who have to sell the machine.
I no longer have my Beeza. Having always yearned for a Sportster, I carefully read your write-up of the ’72 XLCH. I bought one. The break-in period is not over, but my experience
verifies your evaluation. I thank you (and Harley-Davidson probably does, too) for giving me a push.
Once you learn how to start it, the acceleration and feeling of power makes driving to work a thrill. Not enough has been said about the feeling of power. I drive only two miles to work and where can I go 1 15 in morning traffic? But to feel that throb of power provided by the XLCH does it.
The gas tank is small (2.2 gal.), which may be a problem on my longer trips. Handling is surprisingly superior even at slow speeds. The electrics could be improved to prevent the lights from dimming at idle. Turn signals should be standard. Timing is impossible without a special clear insert in the timing hole. Remove the plug while the engine is running and watch the oil spray out.
It is inconvenient that oil grades and plug numbers are via H-D. How does one locate a H-D-5 plug in the middle of nowhere?
In response to my question whether the bike comes with a tool kit standard on most bikes, the mechanic replied that all I bought was a motorcycle. But I am immensely satisfied (who wouldn’t be at that price?). I have a super sexy machine.
Raymond Wicks Poughkeepsie, N.Y.
’71 BSA AND TRIUMPH
For those CYCLE WORLD readers who may be interested in British bikes, we’d like to relay an account of a 1971 BSA Lightning and a 1971 Triumph Bonneville which have traveled here and abroad enduring the extremes of weather and road conditions with very little servicing, proving themselves exceptional machines.
Both motorcycles were shipped direct from the factory to us in Keflavik, Iceland. Because the purchase was made through an import firm, the bikes were received crated and we were required to set them up for the road ourselves. We were both impressed that the bikes were well tuned and preset by the factory, a great help as there were no cycle shops in Iceland. Needless to say, the machines were broken in under very rigorous driving conditions, with no trouble whatsoever.
The BSA was shipped to New York City in July 1971, from whence it was driven to San Antonio, Texas, where it first saw a cycle shop. The carburetor jets were changed to 180s from the oversized, factory-installed 220s, and the timing was adjusted, the only repairs in the first 3000 miles of operation.
The Bonneville was shipped to New York City in September 1971, from whence it traveled first to Montreal and then to Florida. Aside from a minor tune-up, the bike was trouble-free at 3700 miles.
In October 1971, after a leisurely run across the Southern states, the Beezer was once again united with the Bonne in Florida. Both bikes then headed North through the mountains, and ultimately returned to New York. Aside from a stretched chain on the Bonneville and a noisy valve on the Lightning, these were virtually faultless miles.
We are now in Canada, preparing to continue our trip when the winter weather abates. With 10,500 miles on the BSA and 8000 miles on the Triumph, both machines remain in excellent condition. Minor tuning and adherance to recommended factory maintenance appear to be all that is required to keep our machines in top running order.
(Continued on page 40)
Francis C. (Buck) Wasserman Stuart, Fla.
Harold K. Cook San Antonio, Texas
1970 COMMANDO S
In keeping with your new column, I thought I’d add my two cents worth and perhaps enlighten some readers as to the quirks and foibles of one of the machines which I have owned. I’ll not take up space decrying the failings of my ’51 Indian-Enfield or ’61 Triumph T-Bird. I now own two machines, the most often used one being a 1970 Norton Commando S.
As a whole, the machine is satisfactory, though not, I fear, the type of motorcycle which a first-time rider should own. I realize that, as a rule, a new rider should not opt for one of the fire belchers, but if he must, let him try his hand at another machine before graduating to a Norton.
The Commando is a roadburner, no doubt about that. It has stupendous acceleration and a frighteningly high top speed if well tuned. It wails. It leaks, too. A little trickle around the tach drive, a healthy Niagara Falls around the casings. I’ve been told that the only way to cure this is by matching the casings, but this is a costly and time consuming task. As such, I haven’t done it yet, but suspect that some rainy evening I’ll succumb anyway. The head developed a pin hole which no amount of filling and/or patching attempts with arc welder, etc., could remedy.
Nuts and bolts have a tendency to vanish along the road, together with whatever part they hold. I’ve lost two valve covers and a carb that way. Small bolts should be Loc-Tited and large ones, such as the exhaust clamps, must be safety wired.
I found that the machine has a slight tendency to get into a wobble at excessive speeds and have remedied this fault by installing a Dunstall cylindrical steering damper. It stiffens the low speed steering a bit but cures the wobbles. The Dunstall people, incidentally, have been more than helpful in replacing parts damaged during shipping and I can’t say enough good about them.
The bike is quite tractable at low speeds but obviously not made for city traffic, which fouls the plugs rather quickly. I would therefore not recommend it for town riding.
I have recently modified my Norton with a full complement of Dunstall equipment; expensive but, I feel, worth it. It now runs Dunstall pipes, megs, tank and seat, fairing, clip-ons and rear set. I am also using a Paul Kinch oil cooler and oil pressure gauge which seem to both function well though the gauge does leak.
(Continued on page 42)
One warning, should a Norton owner decide to change from standard brake to a disc assembly. I replaced my front wheel with an alloy hub and wheel and decided to run a manually operated Campagnolo unit on the front. It proved to be disastrous. The disc furnishes less braking power than the stock unit. A costly mistake. I therefore recommend that a rider wishing to switch from standard to disc use one of the hydraulic units now on the market. They’re expensive but worth it.
The machine, at 10,000 miles of medium to hard riding, has devoured three clutch cables, one brake cable and one throttle cable. The tach ceased to function at 8000 miles and was replaced, as was one valve guide. Small point: the rubbers on the footpegs and gear shift lever rotted off after a month or so of riding.
I have to date owned a ’67 Honda Sports 50. a ’68 Benelli 125, a ’69 Kawasaki 250 Samurai, a ’69 Yamaha YDS 250, a Norton Electra (unknown year), an Indian Enfield and a ’61 Triumph T-Bird. The Norton has surpassed all these in sheer enjoyment of riding, being far more roadworthy than any machine except the Samurai. It’s also a hell of a lot more difficult to work on than any of the other machines; due mainly, I think, to the configuration of the frame.
All in all, I feel the Norton is a mechanic’s motorcycle. It’s a magnificient machine, truly a superbike, if you don’t mind recurring adjustments, loosenings and tightenings. But if you’re one to care about the cleanliness of your fingernails and the health of your knuckles, it’s sheer, unadulterated hell.
Thierry Sagnier (Mr.)
National Newsdesk Washington Post
LAVERDA VS. KAWASAKI
You folks at CW seem to talk in a happy proud manner on the lousy characteristics of the Laverda 750SF. For about $910 less I could get a cycle that will be quicker in the 1/4, faster on top end, stop in a surer shorter distance, handle just as good and look just as sharp. Of course I am speaking about the Kawasaki 500 Mach III.
I am going to buy my first cycle this year. It’s going to be the Kawasaki IV, which is better than the Mach III. For anyone’s money the Kawasaki IV cannot be beat.
Earl H. Hopkins Amsterdam, N.Y.
We get letters from many riders like yourself Earl. Due to their inexperience, or particular taste, they reduce the purchase of a motorcycle to a simple set of numbers. Lower in the quarter, faster at top end, cheaper to buy, etc., are equated with good and/or better.
If their simple logic was true, then Honda should have folded its tents five years ago, for Hondas have rarely been the fastest or cheapest mass produced machines made in the course of their manufacturing history. Obviously, something else must go into a good motorcycle, for how else can you explain the fact that Honda outsells every other brand in the U.S.?
You go ahead and buy your Mach IV. It is a fine machine. It is better for you, but only because you have applied your own set of values to it and have chosen it.
It is our responsibility at CYCLE WORLD to have more than one man’s set of values. We test a variety of machines and must therefore see their attributes from a variety of viewpoint. It is thus we sampled the charms of the Laverda. It’s a great, solid, well-made machine, and it handles stably and well. On this last point alone, it has the Mach IV beat. And if you happen to like a) four-strokes better than two-strokes b) cafe racer styling, c) electric starting d) longer touring range, you just might prefer the Laverda to the Kawasaki regardless of price.
If you like a stock dragster sort of bike, backed by a solid network of many dealers, you could do worse than the Kawasaki 750, which, indeed, is the quickest thing on the streets right now.Ed. (Ö)
