Service
Service
RAY NIERLICH
A BAD WRAP
Q: I just read an article by Kevin Cameron, “Should I Use Motorcycle Exhaust Wrap?” Is that statement about no wrap on titanium headers true? I have a 2006 Yamaha R6 trackbike with Sato Racing titanium full exhaust, fully wrapped with Thermo-Tec Cool-It wrap, and painted with their special protection paint. I have been running it for almost two years of trackdays and racing and have not noted any issues about it. Do you think it could be bad for the exhaust or the bike engine? I did a bit of research on the internet, but the info is not very precise. Could you give me a little backup data or advice? JULIO GARCIA CYCLEWORLD.COM
A: Please listen to Kevin. He knows of what he speaks. “The exhaust pipe wrap’s function is to provide heat shielding, such as in a NASCAR or LSR engine compartment. It won’t affect the engine one iota. Now, if some of your more sensitive anatomy is too close to the really hot bits on your bike, it may be useful to wrap that portion of the pipe. It will adversely affect exhaust pipes by trapping heat and moisture. If your system is made of commercially pure titanium, which most Ti pipes are, the result will be cracking and flaking of the pipes.”
CRANKY COUPLE
Q: Ihave two carbureted bikes with the same issue, an ’83 GS1100 and a ’90s Honda F3. They run great in all respects, save one. If they sit for a month, they’re hard starting, but if they sit for a few days or a week, no problem. The choke seems to be working okay on both. It isn’t a battery issue. Someone mentioned spark plugs. But before I start paying a wrench to tear the things apart, what do you think?
JAMES MCCRACKEN TWIN LAKES, Wl
A: If you haven’t checked/reset the float levels on the Suzuki, do so. The factory purposely set them too low as an emissions bodge. You can thank me later. I’d still check the battery voltage while cranking. You want to see 10 volts or more. Then maybe a new set of spark plugs. Since they’re both getting elderly, water test the high-voltage wires/coils after each is running to make sure it doesn’t misfire. The insulation does break down eventually.
RESPONSE PROVIDED
Q: I recently purchased a 2014 KTM 690 Duke. The bike has been modified somewhat. The engine-mapping selector is under the passenger seat and is currently set at 5. The selector goes from 0 to 9. The manual explains that for rain (or soft) set it to 1, setting 2 for sport, and 3 for normal. My question is, what is the difference between all these settings, or at least, where can I find the answer?
JON SUMERFIELD ALLENTOWN, PA
A: For an in-depth discussion try this thread: advrider.com/ index.php?threads/ktm-690-efiidiots-guide.931664/.
The KTM selector has positions 0 through 9. The “engine” map selector is more accurately a “throttle” map selector. Its primary function is to alter the ride-by-wire throttle response. The settings are: 0 for lousy fuel, 1 for softest response, 2 for aggressive response, and 3 for standard. And to confuse the issue, the 4 through 9 positions are the same as 3. Start out on position 1, and if that gets boring try 3 next.
SCREWED ADJUSTMENT
Q: I recently read an article about a dyno tune where the bike picked up a few horsepower. Nothing new as it’s been done a million times and then it hit me. How do you tune a modern motorcycle? There are no points to adjust, no spark advance to set, no air-fuel mixture adjusting. I’m not getting new pipes or a ram-air system or a fuel computer; I just want my bike to run at top performance, maybe run cooler, gain a couple horses, and a smoother torque curve wouldn’t hurt. Can I do it myself? I don’t have a dyno in my garage. Just reveal where those adjustment screws are!
MARCEL THOMAS HOBART, IN
A: Adjustment screws? Those babies have gone the way of the carbs and magnetos. You do still need to have compression, functional spark plugs (and HT leads/ignition coils), and an intake/exhaust system without any major restrictions (plugged air filter or catalyst). Tuning EFI consists of installing an 02 sensor in the head pipe (if not originally fitted) to “read” the fuel mixture ratio and installing a piggybacktype ECU (such as a Dynojet Power Commander). The PC is then connected to a computer to adjust the fuel map electronically. The engine must be tested in increments of throttle opening throughout the rpm range and at normal operating temperature. Dynojet has an AutoTune feature for do-it-yourselfers. The data is captured, so you can’t read the mixture in real time as on a dyno. It will be nearly impossible to get good results unless you can get repeatable conditions, such as in a track setting. Can’t see you holding too percent throttle in fifth gear long enough to allow the AutoTune to capture the data—and keeping your license for long. Most new bikes fuel well right out of the box, but some do benefit more than others. Your expectations are realistic. Don’t expect big horsepower/ torque gains, but “tuning” may work wonders if your bike has an annoying flat spot.
LIGHT NOISE
Q: I own a 2008 Honda XR650L. I’d like to remove a few pounds by replacing the stock exhaust with an aftermarket item. I’m concerned about the noise level, so I’d like a “relatively” quiet system. Can you recommend one? Also, what jetting changes might be required?
KERRY TALBOT POTTER VALLEY, CA
A: Many aftermarket exhausts are obnoxiously loud. Try a SuperTrapp slip-on. It is lightweight and adjustable for noise by adding or removing discs. FMF makes a Q4 slipon that is reasonably quiet. If you keep it close to the original noise level, it will run the same, which out of the box is a bit lean. Consider a jet kit from JD Jetting or Dynojet. A slightly richer mixture will improve throttle response, but too rich will kill fuel mileage with no additional power or response gain.
BEAD BALANCING
Q: I’ll be replacing tires before this coming riding season on my 2014 Victory Cross Country 8-Ball and will try the new Dunlop Elite 4s. But your answer to my question may be a benefit to all riders, street and dirt. I’ve been an automotive professional “grease monkey” since 1968 and seen and tried many of the newly invented “save the world” products! One of them was a liquid tire balancer (Advanced Cycle Products). My opinion was it did nothing good or bad.
The latest fad is glass balancing beads for inside the tires. Dyna beads and Counteract Balancing Beads seem to be the ones that are talked about everywhere on the internet. I cannot find any actual testing of the stuff. I use glass beads to remove paint. What can this stuff do to the inside of a tire as it is rolling around? Has anyone, with knowledge of how to, ever tested it?
Will it actually balance? Tire balance does change over a tire’s life. I check and redo, if needed, every 6,000 miles on my car tires. This is a pain on a motorcycle and tires only last 12K anyway.
JERRY HORN CYCLEWORLD.COM
A: Not familiar with glass beads for balancing, and I don’t want to be. The last thing I need is to discover glass beads inside a tire I’m dismounting in the shop. I never much cared for the liquid-balancing stuff either. Invest in the time and tools to do it right.
