Service
Service
RAY NIERLICH
IDLE SIDE EFFECT
Q: I ride a 2008 Suzuki 1250 Bandit. A great, solid standard. Only issue I’ve had is its tendency to be abrupt coming off full dead throttle, especially in second gear when doing some spirited riding. I know it’s a characteristic of big-bore bikes. I’ve modified the cam of the throttle tube and used a Power Commander module. Still, the issue remains. Last thing I tried was raising the idle stop screw to increase idle from 1,100 rpm to 1,400 rpm. Great results—much smoother coming on throttle. Question is, now shifting into first at idle is pretty jarring (lots of revolving mass). Am I causing undue damage to the dogs? Would a change to lighter oil be recommended?
MARTIN WILLIAMS PORT ANGELES, WA
A: Lower the idle speed back to spec. Lighter (or heavier) oil isn’t going to help enough. When you hear noises such as gear dogs clashing, wear is occurring. Consider yourself lucky your modern Japanese bike has great gears. In years past, you would eventually be pushing that bike rather than riding it, after it shattered something important in there.
Regarding the original problem, you say it has a Power Commander but no mention of a dyno session to fine-tune the map. More improvements in drivability will only be possible with a dyno session.
JUST CHECKING
Q: In the April 2017 issue there is a service letter regarding a hard-starting problem on a 2006 Suzuki DL1000 V-Strom. You suggest the reader should check the battery and replace the spark plugs to solve the problem. I am curious why you did not mention that a failing fuel pump check valve could be the cause of this issue. To me it seems like it would be the most likely culprit in this situation.
GRECSEPPELT COTTAGE GROVE, MN
A: When a fuel check valve fails, the hard-starting problem will occur regularly—and after sitting a few seconds, not just after for a week or more. The fuel pressure drops slowly in every FI system while sitting. After a day or two, no system will still have the required fuel pressure at the ready.
MILD CASE OF THE DRIP
Q: I own a 2009 Yamaha Star 13 0 oT. On the bottom of the crankcase is a dime-size hole (in a triangular metal plate held in place by two Allen screws), which appears to be a pressure relief valve for the water pump (judging from schematic drawings/ descriptions in the service manual). Lately, after a ride, I have noticed a drop of oil (and, at times, a drop of coolant) coming from this opening. From research, all I can figure is that inside this hole is a part called the drain cock, which comes with two O-rings. Is the small amount of oil and/or coolant leak something I should be concerned about?
DAVEALEXANDER TUCSON, AZ
A: The “drain cock” is really a weep hole. The idea is if (or more accurately, when) the water pump leaks, the coolant has an escape route instead of being forced into the crankcase oil (bad). Every water pump has a weep hole, from your Chevy pickup to your Star. If the drip is only occasional slight seepage, oil or coolant, it isn’t a huge cause for concern. Now eventually the leak will get worse. How long before that happens, no one can predict. If you don’t relish unpleasant surprises far from home, plan on pulling the water pump sooner rather than later. This repair is medium-hard in difficulty and probably beyond most owners’ skill level.
KAW MILK
Q: I just bought a 2013 Kawasaki 650. The oil has gotten a bit creamy. I was told it could be condensation. Is that right?
DEREK CANNON CYCLEWORLD.COM
A: Yes. Warm it up and change the oil ASAP. If after running for a while it still seems creamy, change it again. Try to avoid short trips to avoid this in the future. When you have the chance, run it long and hard to get operating temperatures up. Kawasaki runs cold (140 degrees Fahrenheit) thermostats in most of its engines, including yours, which isn’t going to help the situation. See Cycle World’s December 2016’s “Give Us A Mulligan, Mike” for more detail.
SEAL OF APPROVAL
Q: I recently acquired a 1974 Honda CB200 twin. It has charging issues. When I removed the round stator cover, motor oil spilled out! Is this normal? Even the Honda shop manual isn’t clear—no mention of “drain oil before removing cover.” No problem replacing a crank seal; I’m just looking for the correct info before I tear it down.
ROBERT PHARI5 CYCLEWORLD.COM
A: Yes. There is no seal behind the stator, which is common practice on the majority of bikes. Just tip the bike so the stator side is up for a minute or so and that will minimize any oil that might spill out. Odds are, any charging problem is the regulator or poor connections in the circuit. Check the battery and also engine earth connections first.
