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ANNOYING STUTTER RADIANT HEAT BEST USED BIKE ETHANOL BLUES
RAY NIERLICH
The Concours 14 was Cycle World's Best Sport-Touring Bike from 2008 to 2010, but that doesn't mean it's immune to potential EFI or ECU problems.
STUTTERING KAW
Q: I own a 2011 Kawasaki Concours 14 ABS with about 5K miles on it. Great bike. I am having a strange problem within a specific rpm range. When in top gear on the highway and between 3,800 and 4,200 rpm, at about 80 to 85 mph, the bike stutters when steady throttle is being applied. Doesn’t do it in lower gears at same rpm range. Techs replaced the fuel pump once under warranty. I get random FI error codes, but they say it all checks out and to try different gas. I run Mobil or Shell high test. The bike screams with no hesitation, but it still has this annoying stutter. Thoughts?
HOWARD A. DICKSTEIN SPRINGFIELD, MA
A Sounds as though your bike is probably going lean, or less likely B rich, at the speeds you mention. To not overlook anything simple, first inspect the airbox for the presence of oil, which can be deposited onto the filter through the breather system and cause the bike to run rich. The most likely cause of a lean condition is an EFI sensor or the ECU itself. That the condition is gear-specific points to the ECU itself. A fuel pump issue would either cause the bike to stop running or show itself in high-demand conditions such as when it “screams,” not at part throttle when demand is low. It sounds as though you’ve changed fuel, so rule that out.
Since your bike has a three-year warranty and you are close to the end, or just out of warranty, be sure to have a complaint forwarded to the factory representative. If the factory rep decides the dealer will be reimbursed for its time to swap parts in an effort to locate the problem, then the dealer will go the extra mile. Failing that, find a dyno shop with an exhaust gas analyzer and see exactly what the mixture is doing when the bike stutters. Maybe a Power Commander is in your future?
FEEL THE H-D HEAT
QB I ride a 2005 Harley-Davidson Ultra Classic with Twin Cam 88 * engine. My personal challenge is to ride it as smoothly and quickly as
I can my BMW R1150R. It takes a lot of concentration to succeed to that level on such a heavy (antiquated?) bike.
My problem is the heat generated by that engine. I have an oil cooler, and I use synthetic. I have “true duals,” but I’ve put back on the original mufflers. Sound, yes; noise, no thanks. Many others have commented on the heat issue. Is there a solution, or is this part of the H-D mystique?
MARC HOROWITZ NORTH BABYLON, NY
A Radiant heat is a common complaint on Harley-Davidson Big Twins, especially with older models. When Harley changed the frame for 2009, it also improved the heat shielding. Better yet, with the 2014 Twin Cam 103 liquid-cooled engine, the heat is directed away from the rider. So, short of trading up or moving farther north, what can be done? Adding an oil cooler is the first thing to do, which you already have done. Fitting less restrictive mufflers would be next. All Screamin’ Eagle mufflers are under 80 decibels, making them a good choice to keep the neighbors happy while increasing flow. After that, you may get a tiny improvement by richening the mixture to match your now-lessrestrictive exhaust. A parade-duty fan for low-speed conditions can be fitted. This was a police-edition accessory and goes where the horn sits.
THIRSTY BEEMER
QB I have a 2004 BMW R1150RS with 118,000 miles on it. Within * the last six to eight months, my average gas mileage has gone down 10 to 15 mpg. The bike idles at the correct rpm, but I still see some vibration at idle and sometimes it dips and “pops” when I’m sitting still. I’ve done a throttlebody sync and valve adjustment a few times now, even though I’m short of the 6,000-mile service needed. I’m curious if a fuel filter may be the cause of my crappy gas mileage or whether I need to keep doing what I’m doing until I get my tune absolutely correct. I’ve been working on this for a while, but I’m saving getting the fuel filter
GOT A MECHANICAL OR TECHNICAL PROBLEM with your beloved ride? Perhaps we can help. Contact us at cwservice@cycleworld.com with your questions. We cannot guarantee a reply to every inquiry.
until winter since I have to remove all the Tupperware and tank to get to it. Please tell me: Am I looking in the right direction, or is there something else I should look at?
CARRICK SLACK COLORADO SPRINGS, CO
Change direction. I doubt that any throttle-body sync could be off enough to drop your fuel mileage that much. To sync throttles on your bike, use a Twin Max electronic sync tool or better. A vacuum gauge won’t do. A new fuel filter won’t help this problem since it would decrease fuel flow. Be very careful not to adjust your valves too tight. A smidge loose is far better than a smidge tight. Change your 02 sensor. If it has run more than tooK miles, I guarantee it is lazy or dead. You can hook up a digital multimeter to the 02 lead after warming up the bike. Watch the sensor voltage cycling up and down. Check your old one and then the new one for fun.
ETHANOL BLUES
QB I bought a 2006 Kawasaki Ninja 250R with about 5,400 miles. It * had sat in a garage for almost two years without running. I emptied the fuel tank completely, emptied the float bowls, and then took apart the carbs and needles, which were covered in green gunk. Next I cleaned the carbs with carb cleaner and cleared the needle openings with a fine copper wire, taking care not to scratch them. A new battery was installed. After putting in fresh fuel, I turned the engine over and it eventually started after a few cranks. It idled normally with the choke open but would stall with it closed. After starting and stalling a few times, I went to a Ninja 250 forum site and someone recommended making adjustments to the idle mixture screw. I made an adjustment, either a quarter or half open. The bike would idle fine with the choke closed, but as soon as I opened up the throttle it would stall. When I rev the bike (in neutral), the rpm drops and stalls.
When I put the bike in gear, it does not stall and I am able to ride, though it was a bit rough and choppy and there is some hesitation in acceleration. Please help.
DAN YOON EVANSTON, IL
A: I hate ethanol too. Your carbs have tiny jets and passages. B The tiniest buildup of green gunk in the pilot circuit will cause incredibly poor, lean running. With the engine running, check the intake for any vacuum leaks using WD-40 sprayed around the carb boots. If rpm goes up, you have a leak. If it doesn’t, pull the carbs again. Take them apart and boil them in water with a bit of vinegar or lemon juice in it. Do not boil any diaphragms! Rinse and repeat as necessary. (Do this when your significant other is out for the day.) I’ve used a small ultrasonic cleaner from Harbor Freight, using a warm acidic solution, with great results. C1U
