Service

SERVICE

By Paul Dean

A tach-ey situation

I have a 1996 Suzuki Bandit 600 that has about 4500 miles on it. In the middle of a ride one day, with around 3900 miles on the bike, the speedometer/tachometer quit working. Just as strangely, 300 or 400 miles later, it started working again. This happened in early fall, so I don’t think cold temperatures would have been a factor. But I do occasionally ride in rain, and that might have had something to do with it. I’d like to know if you can suggest a possible reason for this temporary failure and also some preventive measures. D. F. Brown

Fairmont, West Virginia

I think I understand the problem, but I 'm puzzled by your explanation of it. First, you imply that two instruments, which you call the “tachometer/speedometer,” quit working, then you use the singular “it” in reference to the failed equipment. You also say that the problem remedied itself some 300 or 400 miles later; which leads me to believe you actually are talking about a problem with the tachometer; had the speedometer, which also contains the odometer, stopped functioning, you would not have known how many miles passed between its failure and its mysterious recovery.

What’s more, not only are the Bandit’s speedometer and tachometer two completely separate instruments, they don’t even rely on the same means of acquiring their particular data. The speedometer is purely mechanical, driven by a cable from the front wheel, whereas the tachometer is electronic and gets its rpm information from the ignition ’s igniter box. Consequently, the chances of both instruments simultaneously ceasing to function and then resuming operation at precisely the same time are beyond comprehension.

I assume, then, that the failure was with just the tach, and that the most likely cause was a loose or dirty electrical connection. Check and, if necessary, clean all the connections at the igniter box, and in the 9-wire gang plug up inside the fairing, behind the tach. Pay particular attention to the red-and-black wire, which is the one carrying the signal from the igniter to the tach. If all of these connections are clean and solid, the problem should not return.

Dual-sport speedster

I recently purchased a 1998 Honda XR650L dual-purpose bike, and I am very satisfied with it except for one thing: On the highway, it seems to be revving excessively when I run it at the 65-mph speed limits that are prevalent around here. Why are these types of bikes geared so low? What kind of prolonged speed will my 650 safely handle without causing damage to the engine? Will it handle 75 mph (the new legal limit on 1-80) indefinitely through Nebraska? 1 would like to drop the revs about 10 percent at this speed. How do I go about selecting the right sprocket, chain, countershaft sprocket, etc.? Jay Singer

Hill City, Kansas

/ think you’re fighting an uphill battle, Jay. If you change the final gearing to reduce the rpm by 10 percent, you 'll also be changing the overall ratio in all of the gears by the same amount-and the engine still won’t be spinning that much more slowly at the higher speeds you want to travel. The XR650L has a rather tall first gear, and raising it 10 percent will transform take-offs from traffic lights and stop signs into lazy, lackluster affairs, almost like pulling out in second gear instead of first. It also will take just enough zing out of the acceleration to make offroad excursions much less invigorating. What’s more, the XR-L already has a large ratio gap between first and second gears, and 10 percent taller gearing would make first-to-second gearchanges feel as though you have skipped an entire gear. Especially when riding the dirt, you'd find situations in which first gear would be too low and second gear too high.

My advice here is simple: Leave the gearing alone. At 75 mph, the engine is turning about 4950 rpm, some 800 revs below the peak horsepower rpm, and almost 1600 rpm below the 6500rpm redline. It will run there all dav, so long as you keep it properly tuned and filled with clean oil. The XR650L was designed to be a dual-purpose bike with exceptional off-road capability; trying to turn it into a high-speed roadburner will result in it being substandard for either purpose.

El Niño strikes again

I couldn’t help but comment on the motorcyclist who had the 1997 Harley that burned an excessive amount of oil (“Smokey the unbearable,” April, ’98) and the excuses he got when he took his bike back to the dealer. The only excuse we haven’t yet heard here is, “It’s probably El Niño.” 1 agree with your answer to his question but would like to go a step farther. He needs to contact his Attorney General’s Office (AGO) in West Virginia. Many AGOs have consumer-protection divisions that offer free mediation services to state residents.

I would think West Virginia also has “Lemon Laws” that include motorcycles. He should check on this ASAP, as well. Some manufacturers have arbitration boards that help consumers, although I’m not sure about HarleyDavidson. Tom Gardner

Consumer Protection Division Attorney General’s Office Santa Fe, New Mexico

Let it go, Lenny

Someone gave me a 1976 Kawasaki KZ650 that has been sitting in a barn for 11 years. I’d like to restore it, but 1 don’t want to put more money into it than it will ever be worth. The body and the frame are rusty and incomplete, the shocks and pipes are badly rusted, and the engine needs a complete rebuild, including the repair of some broken fins. Without going into a lot of detail, is it worth the investment of time and money? Len Schuck

Salina, Kansas

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